Diamond design is constructed on the principle of zig-zag twill.Pointed draft is used to make diamond design.Diaper design is constructed on the principle of herringbone twill.Straight or broken draft is used to make diamond design.
Fabric Manufacturing
Classification of Twill Weave
Classification of twill weave: S twill, Z twill, Warp way twill, Weft way twill, Simple twill, expanded twill, Multiple Twill. Derivarives of twill: Zig-zag, Harringbone, Diamond,Diaper, Broken, Rearranged,Shaded, Steped, Elongated, Combined and Curved twill.
Woven fabric Structure
The order of interlacement of warp and weft threads at right angles is known as structure of woven fabrics. The interlooping system of yarns is known as structure for knit fabrics. Classification of woven fabric structure: Simple structure and Compound Structure.Methods of fabric representation:❶Warp overlap in which warp is above weft and ❷Weft overlap in which weft is above warp
Yarn count conversion and yarn count converter
Yarn Count Conversion
Conversion from direct to direct system
Conversion from indirect to indirect system
Conversion from direct to indirect system
Conversion from indirect to direct system
Spinning Carding Machine : Chute Feed System
The system of feeding small tufts of cotton fibers directly from blow room to the card is called the chute feed system.
Card is arranged in series circuit through pneumatic pipe.
Broken and Rearranged Twill
Broken twill is formed by breaking the twill line of basic twill. Normally straight draft is used to produce this weave. Rearranged twill is produced by the rearrangement or transposition of the original order of the threads in the regular basic twill.
Relation Between Yarn Count and Diameter & count calculation for ply yarn
Normally, when two single yarns are twisted together one should expect some contraction or some increase in length depending on the twisting direction. A contraction will result in a yarn slightly coarser than the estimated value. In order to correct for this difference, typically 5% to 10% contraction or extension should be accounted for.
Derivatives of Plain Weave
There are two types of derivatives : Rib and Matt. In rib weave, it produces rib or cord effect in warp/weft direction. Used as grosgrain cloth, mattress cloth,hair cords, blankets etc. Matt is constructed by extending the plain weave both vertically and horizontally. Matt weave finds extensive uses for a great variety of fabrics such as dress materials, shirtings, sail cloth, duck cloth etc.
Twill & Angle of Twill Weave
A twill weave is characteristics by diagonal ribs (twill lines) on the face of the fabric. These twill lines are produce by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displaing the interlaceing points of each end by one pick relative to that of the previous end while the plain weave can only be woven in one form, there exit several options with regrad to twills.
Motion of Loom
Shedding is the operation by which the warp is divided into two sheets so that sufficient gap is created for the uninterrupted passage of the weft from one side of the loom to the other.