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Classification of Twill Weave

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Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj

Co-founder , Admin & Author at Textile Study Center
Student of Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX) Department: Apparel Engineering

Classification of twill weave :

Classification of Twill Weave :

a)  According to the direction of twill line

❶  Z twill: The twill line runs from bottom left to top right.

Example: 3/2 Z twill

❷  S twill: The twill line runs from top left to bottom right.

Example: 3/2 S twill

b)According to the way of construction

❶  Warp way twill: Warp float run in the weft direction.

Example:[ 3/2 warp way twill

❷  Weft way twill: Weft float run in the weft direction.

Example:3/2 weft way twill

c) According to the face yarn

❶ Warp face twill : Prominence of warp yarn on the face of the cloth will be seen.

Example: 4/1  Z twill

❷ Weft face twill : Prominence of warp yarn on the face of the cloth will be seen.

Example: 2/3 Z twill

❸  Balanced or double face twill : Prominence of warp and weft yarn on both side of the cloth is the same.

Example: 2/2 Z twill

d) According to the nature of twill line

❶  Simple/Straight twill: Each warp end is raised or lowered under only one pick in the repeat.

Example: 4/1  Z twill or 1/4  Z twill

❷  Expanded twill: Each warp end is raised over or loweres under more than one adjacent pick in the repeat. If the warp and weft twill lines are of equal width, the fabric is double-faced.

Example: 4/2  Z twill, 3/3  Z twill

❸  Multiple twill: It contains at least two warp twill lines or two weft twill lines of different width in a repeat.

Derivatives of twill weave

There are many derivatives of twill are given below.

Herringbone twill weave

Zig-zag or pointed or wavy twill

Diamond design

Diaper design

Broken or reversed twill

Rearranged or transposed twill

Elongated (steep or reclining) twill

Combined twill

Stepped twill

Curved twill

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Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj

Co-founder , Admin & Author at Textile Study Center
Student of Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX) Department: Apparel Engineering

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