Introduction to fiber and textile fibers

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June 27, 2018 Md. Omar Faruk 0

Properties of Cotton Fibers

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Md. Omar Faruk

Author at Textile Study Center

Student of National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research

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Properties of Cotton Fibers Considered by Cotton Spinners

Spinning Technology for Cotton Fibre:

Flow chart of carded yarn production:

Input	Machine	Output
Bale	Blow Room	Card mat
Card mat	Carding	Card sliver
Card sliver	Breaker draw frame	Drawn sliver
Drawn sliver	Finisher draw frame	Drawn sliver
Drawn sliver	Simplex	Roving
Roving	Ring	Yarn

Flow chart of combed yarn production:

Input	Machine	Output
Bale	Blow Room	Card mat
Card mat	Carding	Card sliver
Card sliver	Breaker draw frame	Drawn sliver
Drawn sliver	Lap former	Lap
Lap	Comber	Combed sliver
Combed sliver	Finisher draw frame	Drawn sliver
Drawn sliver	Simplex	Roving
Roving	Ring	Yarn

Properties of cotton fibers considered by cotton spinners:

1 . Fiber fineness: Fiber fineness is measured in Micronaire value (MIC). The higher the micronaire value of fiber the coarser the fiber.

Rating of MIC value-

MIC	Description
Less than 3.0	Very fine
3.0~3.6	Fine
3.7~4.7	Medium
4.8~5.4	Coarse
5.5 to above	Very coarse

Fiber fineness influences the number of fibers in the cross section of yarn. The finer the fiber the higher the number of fiber in yarn cross section.

2 . Maturity: The maturity of cotton is defined in terms of the development of cell wall. A fully mature fiber has a well developed thick cell wall. On the other hand, an immature fiber has a very thin cell wall.

If,

M.R. =	0.85	Good fiber
M.R. =	0.75	Average fiber
M.R =	0.65	Poor fiber

Immature fiber leads to :

Nepping
Loss of yarn strength
Varying dye ability
High proportion of short fibers

3 . Fiber length: The average length of spinnable fiber is called staple length. The quality, count, strength etc. depend on the staple length of fiber. Normally the higher the staple length of fiber the higher the yarn quality.

Staple length	Category
1” or less	Short staple
1 ” to 1 ”	Medium staple
1 ” to 1 ”	Long staple

4 . Fiber strength: The higher the fiber strength the higher the yarn and fabric strength. Very weak cottons tend to rupture during processing both in blow room and carding, creating short fibers and consequently deteriorate yarn strength and uniformity. Minimum strength for a textile fiber is approximately 6 CN/tex.

Some significant breaking strength of fibers are:

Polyester	35~60 CN/tex
Cotton	15~40 CN/tex
Wool	12~18 CN/tex

5 . Fiber cleanness: In addition to usable fibers, cotton stock contain foreign matter of various kinds:

Vegetable matter – Husk portions, seed fragments, stem fragments, leaf fragments wood fragments.

Mineral material – sand, dust, coal.

Other foreign matters – metal fragments cloth fragments, packing materials.

Accepted the range of foreign materials to the bale:

Up to 1.2%	Very clean
1.2% to 2.0%	clean
2.0% to 4.0%	Medium
4.0% to 7.0%	Dirty
7.0% to above	very dirty

According to the international committee for cotton testing methods the following types are to be distinguished:

Trash	above 500 µm
Dust	(50~500)µm
Micro dust	(15~50)µm
Breathable	below 15 µm

6 . Fiber color: color is particularly important as a measure of how well a yarn or fabric will dye or bleach. Instrumental techniques for determining the color of the sample have only now reached the industry, HVI measurement of color provides reasonably accurate results of average reflectance and yellowness in a sample.

7 . Fiber elongation: Elongation is specified as a percentage of the starting length. The greater crease-resistance of wool compared with cotton arises

for example from the difference in their elongations, cotton-6~10%, wool-25~45%

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